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The first days of spring are heady times for the home cook.
With fresh greens, slender stalks of asparagus, sweet peas and snappy green beans arriving in produce aisles, and trips to a farmers market on the horizon, we get to trade winter’s heavy comfort food for fresh, brighter fare. The birds are again singing in the morning and the sun is actually shining, inspiring us to think lighter and healthier in the kitchen.
Many of spring’s best recipes are veggie-forward, and they often come in shades of green. It’s the most common color in the garden, and is a symbol of the season’s freshness and rebirth.
Pasta pairs especially well with spring vegetables, especially if you choose pillowy gnocchi.
If you’ve never made pasta from scratch, you might be wondering if it’s possible to make homemade gnocchi without a nonna to guide you. Not only is the answer yes but also it’s a fun way to involve your kids, or spouse, in making dinner.
You don’t need any fancy equipment to make the plump Italian dumplings — just an even surface for rolling and a floured fork or inexpensive gnocchi board to create the pasta’s distinctive ridges — and you can make a fairly large quantity in a short amount of time. Plus, it’s a wonderfully tactile activity in that you mix, knead, roll and cut the dough with your hands.
I prefer making ricotta gnocchi over the traditional potato because the dough is so much easier to work with. Cooking potatoes for me is an exercise in frustration because I never, ever can get the texture just right; the spuds are either overcooked and mushy, or too dry. And it’s a tricky business figuring out how much, or little, flour you need to add because it’s all about how the dough feels.
Ricotta gnocchi are so much more forgiving. You can pretty much master the technique on your first try if you can accurately measure ingredients. And the results are so light and velvety.
For this spring pasta dish, we pair lightly sauteed asparagus with crisp sugar snap peas and sweet peas. Creamy and dense, fresh ricotta found in Italian markets is the best, but you also can use good-quality supermarket brands. A touch of cream adds silkiness to the completed dish. I also like to add a squeeze of lemon to brighten the taste. Don’t forget the freshly grated Parmesan for a salty-savory finish.
If you’re not going to cook the entire batch right away, air-dry the dumplings at room temperature on a parchment-covered cookie sheet for at least one hour, then transfer the sheet to the freezer. Freeze the gnocchi until solid (about 45 minutes), then place the pieces in a zipper-lock bag and store in the freezer for up to eight weeks. You can cook the gnocchi right from the freezer.
-- Adapted from food52.com
Gretchen McKay: gmckay@post-gazette.com, 412-263-1419 or on Twitter @gtmckay.
Ricotta Gnocchi With Spring Vegetables
PG tested
Be sure to give your gnocchi some grooves, either with a wooden gnocchi paddle or the tine of a fork. The indentations help sauces cling to the pasta’s exterior. Don’t overcook the dumplings — as soon as the gnocchi floats, it’s done.
For gnocchi
2 pounds fresh whole-milk ricotta
2 eggs
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
4 cups all-purpose flour, sifted, plus more for rolling
For sauce
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 shallots, thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 bunch asparagus, sliced on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces
1 cup sugar snap peas
½ cup sweet peas, thawed if frozen
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for garnish
¼ cup heavy cream
Zest of 1 lemon, plus 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Red pepper flakes, to taste
Make gnocchi: In large bowl, stir together ricotta, eggs and oil until thoroughly combined. Stir in Parmesan and sprinkle with nutmeg. Add flour a little at a time and stir thoroughly until dough comes together. It should be sticky but not loose.
Dump dough onto a generously floured surface and use your hands to bring it together into a smooth ball. Add flour as needed until dough is smooth and no longer sticks to your hands.
Flatten into a 4- to 6-inch disk and cut into eight pieces using a bench scraper. Working one piece at a time, roll dough ball into a log that’s about 12 inches long and ¾-inch wide. Be sure to roll from the center out to the ends of the rope. With a floured knife, cut rope into into 1-inch pieces. Roll each piece off the back of a fork dipped in flour to make imprints that will help hold the sauce, or roll on a gnocchi board. Repeat with remaining dough.
Transfer gnocchi pieces to a parchment-lined or nonstick baking sheet dusted in semolina flour. Place sheet in freezer while making the rest of the gnocchi. If you plan to save gnocchi for future use, let them freeze completely on baking sheet before storing in a freezer-friendly zipper plastic bag. Freeze for up to 8 weeks.
Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add olive oil, shallots and pinch of salt and pepper. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes until shallots are slightly soft. Add asparagus and snap peas and cook, tossing occasionally, until veggies are fork tender. about 5 minutes. Add sweet peas and toss to combine. Reduce heat, and keep warm.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
When water has reached a rolling boil, carefully drop gnocchi in. As gnocchi rise to the top, about 5 minutes later, scoop them out with a slotted spoon, shaking off excess water, and place in pan with vegetables. Toss to combine. Saute until gnocchi are lightly browned, about 2 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle in Parmesan cheese, cream and lemon zest and juice. Stir to combine. Add crushed red pepper flakes, if desired.
Spoon into wide shallow bowls and top with more grated Parmesan, if desired.
Serves 8.